We test before we swap.
Mobile starter and alternator replacement across Hampton Roads. Most jobs done at your driveway in under 90 minutes.
Half the starters we get called for don't actually need replacing. The battery cable or ground was the real problem. We test before we swap so you don't pay for a part that didn't need to come off.
One solid click and silence. Solenoid pulled in but the starter motor didn't spin. Usually a worn starter or bad cable.
Awful grinding sound on start. Starter drive isn't releasing the flywheel cleanly. Replace before it chews up the ring gear.
Headlights or dash dimming and brightening with RPM. Alternator isn't keeping the system at proper voltage.
Battery icon on with dimming gauges. Voltage regulator is reporting an undercharge situation in real time.
Burnt smell after driving means a starter is staying engaged, a belt is slipping on a seized pulley, or a wire is overheating.
Battery just tested fine but the engine cranks like it's tired. Starter is pulling too much current internally. Time to swap.
Bad battery makes a good starter look bad. We load-test the battery first. If it fails, that's the conversation.
Amp clamp on the starter cable during cranking. Voltage and amperage check at the alternator under load. Numbers tell the story.
Sometimes it's neither. It's a cable, ground, or fuse. We rule those out before quoting a starter or alternator replacement.
Swap the part, clean the contact surfaces, torque to spec. Verify cranking amps or charging voltage are back in range before we leave.
"Truck wouldn't start at the boat ramp Saturday morning. They drove out to the ramp, tested everything, found it was the starter, had the right part on the truck. Back on the water by noon."
"Another shop wanted to replace the alternator AND starter without testing either. Ground Works tested both. the starter was fine, just needed a new ground strap. Saved me hundreds."
"Alternator failed on a Tuesday, called in the afternoon, they came Wednesday morning. Done in 90 minutes in my driveway. Showed me the old one was barely making 11 volts. Pro work."
Quick rule of thumb: Cranking issues (won't turn, slow crank, clicking) usually point to starter or battery. Charging issues (dim lights with engine running, battery icon, dying battery within days) usually point to the alternator.
Both at once? Almost always the alternator killing the battery, which then can't crank well. We test both before replacing either.
Sometimes yes. Ford and Chrysler starters from older platforms have a separate solenoid mounted on the fender or firewall. That can be swapped on its own for cheap.
Most GM and Asian vehicles have the solenoid integrated on top of the starter, meaning full starter replacement. We tell you which kind you have before quoting.
60-120 minutes depending on engine bay access. A transverse V6 in a front-wheel-drive minivan is the worst. Sometimes the alternator is buried behind other accessories.
Inline-4 RWD trucks and most sedans are easy, under an hour. We quote based on the specific vehicle before we start, so the price doesn't move on you.
Yes, both directions. Undercharging leaves the battery only partially full, which causes sulfation on the plates and shortens its life. Overcharging boils the electrolyte out and warps the plates.
If you're on your second or third battery in two years, it's almost always the alternator (or a parasitic drain), not the battery itself.
Common starters and alternators for popular vehicles (F-150, Silverado, Camry, Civic, Accord, RAV4, Tahoe), yes. We stock the high-failure-rate parts that we see weekly.
Less common stuff (older European, oddball engine configurations) we source from a local parts house, usually delivered to your driveway within an hour. We tell you the wait time before we start.
Fill this out and we'll call you back, usually within the hour during business hours. No bots, no call center, no obligation.
Most starter / alternator replacements done in 90 min or less, at your driveway.